We witnessed a monumental glimpse of the life of the Leatherback turtle. The Leatherback is one of the reasons I came to this area of Costa Rica. I have witnessed the Gray whales calving after their migration from the Bering Sea to San Ignacio lagoon in Baja Sur, and now had the opportunity to watch another life began again; the incredible life of the leatherback. Biologists have tracked a Leatherback having gone over 12000 miles, (three times my current mileage to date!), in it's migration to it's nesting site. The researchers here informed us that these Leatherbacks were most likely coming from the Galapagos Islands. Unfortunately, the Leatherback population is disappearing, almost to extinction. Biologists report a loss of 95% of these reptiles since 1980. The following pictures were copied from the
site as pictures or video are strictly forbidden during the tour. Please visit their site.
While feeling like my presence, (10 inches from the egg laying end, so close you could smell the eggs as they fell from the 'ole girl), was a bit invasive, I couldn't help but watch in amazement; staring at these giants clamoring up the shore, painstakingly building their nests, laying their eggs, covering and camouflaging it, and then ever so slowly lumbering back off into the depths of the Ocean.
Upon returning to my shelter, at 2:30am, I drifted off to sleep with mixed emotions; Excited and amazed at what I had just observed, and saddened, and enraged too I suppose, for their loss of life in our "progress". Anyways, I wont get started about the enormity of our impact, much of it unnecessary, upon the world we live in. You all are aware.
If your interested in learning more about this incredible journey of life, here is a great National Geographic article on the Leatherback.
But your not here to read about Tortugas! You want to know about the Monkeys, Crocodiles, and bird life! Right? Well here is a hard to see shot of a Howler monkey. Up to this point I had only heard their cry. I named this one Coco.
and clearly visible are what I think are Coco's-nuts... I know, that was pretty juvenile humor, just couldnt resist...
Here is a Croc...
You can barely see his head in the top center of this pic, (D'oh), but trust me he is there, all 8 feet of him... just beneath the surface. (Sorry it's the best I got).
Lots of bird life in the Mangroves...
The Mangroves...
and how can I forget to introduce the guide. He can belt out one hellofa Howler call! I dont have his name or contact info. right now but will post soon.! he is an EXPERT, through and through and a great guy as well. Thanks man!
PEACE!
Hey bro,
ReplyDeleteseems like you are having a great time. I have 2 things to say. 1. the pictures and the info is fantasic, thanks. And 2. I'm kickin your *** when you get back, for not taking me with you. L.O.L. Will be looking forward to checking your blog soon for more pic's
Sending some love your way..............
I have been hearing about the bitter cold in the Midwest. How are Mom and Dad dealing with it all? It sounds like it's soo cold it could be dangerous?
ReplyDeleteI wish you were here too!
At the moment, I am in a hostel in San Jose, Costa Rica, to get the HOG serviced at the HD dealer tomorrow. The plan is to then ride into Panama City to put myself and the HOG on a plane to Columbia around the 21st. Probably won’t be posting much 'till I make it into Columbia as I have quite a bit of planning to do for South America. It is a huge space. With the planning I have done to date, I still can’t quite comprehend the enormity of it. It's scale blows me away.
While the ride has been beautiful, it isnt glamorous. I mostly eat street food, (consequently have spent several all nighters with stomach cramps), and stay in hostels, (for the most part), where I sleep in a dorm, share a bathroom and showers with mostly loud, young travelers who spend most of their time talking, (loudly and disrespectfully in my opinion), about how they "did" this country or that country, like it's just another notch in their belt, (whatever...).
Traveling solo translates into quite a bit of time being alone, (like I have never been before), mixed in with moments of pure joy and exhilaration. Sometimes the trip seems completely nonsensical, other times it makes more sense than anything I have ever done. But if you were to ask me why, I couldn’t tell you, right now anyways.
It's an unnerving feeling not to really "be" anywhere despite having been so many places. Geographically speaking, I know the direction I am heading in, personally, I have no idea. I just trust that I will whenever I get to wherever that is.
The language barrier is a major challenge. The countries in Central America all have their own versions of Spanish, and you really don't have the time to pick up on the nuances of each countries dialect. (for me it is even more pronounced as I speak little to no Spanish). Simple things; getting directions, doing laundry, finding a place to eat and sleep, can consume an entire day, for each to get accomplished.
I spend quite a bit of time brainstorming and researching ways to give back. This blog is one very small way that I hope is doing so. (This blog is one of three that I am doing. The other two are in a motorcycle forum and a travelers forum). I spent quite a bit of time debating on whether or not to log this trip via this blog because on the one hand it seemed somewhat vain but in the end, the ability to share this gringo’s perspective on life riding through the Americas on the HOG, sounded like it would at least provide some entertainment to my people, while letting you all know where I am at, and at most provide a glimpse of this part of the world for folks to consider in planning their own travels, or just maybe spark some interest in general.
Anyways, I am rambling. Too much coffee this morning…
Take good care brother and will talk to you soon. And as always, it is really great to hear from you!
John-
ReplyDeleteAm enjoying your blog soooo much thank you for doing it. Been crazy busy here with a new job but I've been following the journey. Where is the traveler's blog you mentioned?
I think of you every day...be safe and take more pics when you can. They're exquisite.
i love you-
Hi Julie Kay Baumann!
ReplyDeleteSo good to hear from you! What new job? Whatcha doin? I didnt even know you were working to have a new job? I am a bad brother. I should know these things.
How is my main man Franklin doing? Give him a big hug for me, and dont forget to slap a big wet one on to G-man for me too!
Glad you like the pics. If your remember, my old Canon died, so finally scored a new camera, and got my HOG serviced, all in one day. Woo-HOOO! Am good to go for another 5000 miles!! More pics should be posting soon...
I am always thinking about you guys. I was actually thinking quite a bit about Franklin whilst hanging out with the leatherbacks. He would have just really dug that. I remember the times coming over to your crib, he and I would always somehow wind up in your room watching the Nature channel. Now, thats my kind of guy!
Besides scoring a camera and getting my bike serviced, all in one day, I just got a reply from a ship that I have been wanting to take a ride on for as long as I have known of it, ( a long time...). It has a pretty kool story behind it. Anyways, me and the HOG just might sail with them. A few things have to fall into place, but I am praying that it all works out. If it does, I hope to sail on her for a long, long, while, possibly a year or more. The winds, literally had to be blowing the right way for this opportunity to come along, and it's a once in a lifetime shot, so cross your fingers and send me some good vibes. Alot still has too fall into place, (like me finding a translator to speak with the Kuna tribe in Miramar so they will canoe my bike to the ship, among a hundred other little things), but am going to see what I can do to make it happen.
Check it out at this site...
http://www.stahlratte.org/27.0.html?&L=1
Take good care and know that I am sending all of you my love every day.
Peace.
Hey bro,
ReplyDeleteYes, you heard right, cold as heck here. About -30 with wind chill. Good motor cycle weather hehe. Mom and dad are doing ok. I try to check up on them every day. What is the reason you are going to board a plane to Columbia. Unrest or road conditons. Yes i know what you mean about being lonely at times, with the comunication issues. Glad to know this trip seems to be going well for you tho. Well i have to go out and see how the old truck will start. Have a great day.
-30? I hope your not working outside? Thanks for checking in on Mom and Dad. I know they really appreciate it, as we all do.
ReplyDeleteThere are no roads going through the Darien Gap, (south of Panama). The world has been trying to get a road through for 50 years. Because of the dense jungle and the control by drug cartels and guerillas, it just hasn't happened. It is truly the last frontier yet to be tamed on this continent. I think Panama claims it, but no legitimate authority controls it. It's no mans land. So if anyone wants to get to South America from Panama, you either fly over it or take a boat around it.
Remember to put on your hat and hope the truck fired up!